Today we added some cross bracing to our floor framing and installed our rigid extruded polystyrene insulation. Two layers of 2" and one layer of 1" insulation filled the cavities well. Overall R value of the flooring system should be around 30, which is what ENERGY STAR recommends for the most harsh North American climates.
In anticipation of shower drain plumbing, we created this cavity. Other insulation options include traditional fiberglass, dense pack cellulose, spray foam, or sheep wool insulation.
After insulation we glued and screwed 3/4" subfloor to the framing. This is a huge step because it feels like the real beginning of the home. Walls are next!
After we leveled the foundation with the scissor jacks, we fastened a series of pressure-treated 2 x 6 to the frame of the trailer with heavy duty screws. This initial step gives us a perpendicular structure to the steel cross members of the trailer so that the floor system will be more secure. Later we will share how we unitize the home and trailer framing. Looking forward to floor framing!
A layer of 3/4" pressure-treated plywood is fastened to the 2 x 6's below. As you can see, we have decided to cantilever the floor framing out to the exterior edge of the fenders. This amounts to an 18" increase in the width of our structure, bringing it closer to 8' x 16' overall. Next we will frame the floor and anchor the system to the trailer with additional measures. It's really satisfying to see the extra space fore and aft of the fenders come into play!
Our 2 x 6 floor framing system went in without a htich today. We essentially made three different boxes and tied them together. The gaping hole in the foreground is for the porch that will go in much later. Below you will see how we chose to anchor this system to the frame of the trailer...
We opted for a 10" foundation bolt that essentially grabs the notched 2 x 6 and bolts it to the metal frame below. The nuts you see are securing a U-bolt that hugs the foundation bolt to the 2 x 6. We repeated this at 12 total locations throughout the footprint of the home. Although time consuming, this step is critical to creating a secure foundation for the home. Both wind forces (highway speeds) and road turbulence (new term?) can actually detach the home from the frame of the trailer if not done properly. Super solid!
It's an exciting day that marks the beginning of a new tiny home. This particular home started its life at the shop of Mike Moore, a custom welder and trailer manufacturer located in Indian Trail, North Carolina. Our specifications included two 5200# axles with electronic braking, leveling jacks at the corners, and anchor points for the framing system of the home. Now its off to the Wishbone shop in Asheville, NC to have some real fun!
Here is our sketch of the trailer that Mike so diligently followed. It's worth noting that we decided not to add the weather and pest plate guard to the bottom side of the trailer due to some feedback from Mike. It would add significant cost to the project and we could benefit from having access to the underside of the frame. We opted instead for some mounting tabs underneath that we will eventually use to install a plastic sheathing product to keep rocks, weather, and pests away from the home's underside.
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